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The Kenyan Coastline

Watamu

The road from Mombasa to Watamu leads across the Mtwapa bridge and past Mtwapa town, to the thriving sisal plantations at Vipingo. Though it's being fixed, the road from Mtwapa is full of potholes and requires extra care for cars with low suspension.

Almost two hours from Mombasa is the sleepy town of Watamu. Its atmosphere is that of a village, so stock up on supplies before leaving Mombasa. Hotels are in plenty though, and our abode is the Turtle Bay Beach Club, an all inclusive resort next to Kenya 's internationally acclaimed Watamu National Marine Park. The rooms are cool and comfortable, fully air-conditioned with en-suite bathrooms. Within the spacious lounges you may enjoy a beverage anytime 24 hours a day. And outdoors are supervised pool games and other beach activities. A vibrant kids club exists, so that parents need not worry about their children at all.

Mida creek

Late afternoon when it's slightly cooler is the time to take a drive to one of the most productive mangrove ecosystems on earth- Mida creek, which forms part of the same habitat as the Arabuko-Sokoke forest.

Visitors are very welcome to come and view this habitat, accompanied by a knowledgeable guide. Saidi takes me on a walk through the mangroves, of which there are 7 out of 9 types present here. Small cupboards strategically placed around give some more information. Mangrove barks and leaves actually neutralise the salinity of salty sea water absorbed from underground, as they require fresh water to grow. There are also uses for both their leaves and barks, such as in dyeing clothes. Their flowers are used by the local community to attract bees, so that the honey they make is sold.

In Kiswahili mangroves are known as mkoko, and are a habitat for many types of crabs, molluscs and mongoose.

But the most exciting bit is the walk along a suspended boardwalk that crosses 260 metres through the mangrove forest. Only two people at a time should be on any section, plus keep your balance centralized. From up here there is a great view of the surrounding mangrove canopy. I am told that the best time to take this walk is when the tide is in, so that the swirling water below your feet makes it all the more dramatic. But since the tide is currently out we can take a closer look at the Mangrove roots. Different types have different roots- some hang downwards, while others stick out of the ground like sharp sticks. Here's an interesting survival tactic- the seeds are naturally adapted with a long sharp protrusion at one end, so that once it drops it immediately embeds itself into the ground, like this one that has germinated.

At the end of the walk is a tree house or bird hide that offers visitors a stunning view of Kirepwe island and Mida creek. The forest and creek are linked by complex natural water flow systems and the health of each habitat is dependent on the other. Saidi then offers me a delicacy straight from the mangroves. He digs out cylindrical white shapes from the roots, and to my surprise these are actually oysters. Just pick the slimy insides and voila!- a highly nutritious meal, especially good for the libido. That is if you can stand how they look.

To avoid depleting these habitats the Arabuko-Sokoke Schools and Exotourism Scheme (ASSETS) was set up. Through it, visitor's entrance fees are equitably distributed throughout the communities around the forest and creek so as to facilitate community projects such as building clinics and schools, and to encourage the locals to respect their environment.

The surprise of the day is certainly the sight of flamingoes feeding in the shallows. They apparently fly here to re-fuel on the variety of rich food items buried in the muddy sandflats at low tide. Other birds include plovers, sacred ibis and little egrets. Wear closed shoes when walking on the seabed as there are sharp shells like this pinamuscatha, as well as sponges that house tiny shrimps and fish.

So if this is your kind of pastime then make sure to call in advance so as to find out if the tide is in, which as said before, is the best time to take the boardwalk.

Entertainment

And to end the day, enjoy a theme night of good food and lots of dancing back at your hotel. Not many discos are available in the town, at least not the calibre of Malindi and Mombasa, so you'll probably find yourself partying in the hotel enjoying the all-inclusive offers till the sun comes up...

The air is alive as total strangers mingle and dance together bonded by this thing that is universal no matter the language- ‘music'. And so ends our night by this beach that has been named the fifth best, in the world…

Accommodation rates and images

Related link: Malindi

• Mombasa
• Lamu
• Lamu archipelago
• South Coast
• North Coast
• Kwale - Shimba Hills
• Indian Ocean cruises

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