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Country Info
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The Kenyan
Coastline
Lamu Archipelago
 Sunset on Kiwayu island
Lamu - Manda
Lamu is a central departure point for anyone
visiting the surrounding islands within the Lamu archipelago. It's
much faster to get around by speedboat, which will cut the trip down
from over 7 hours as when sailing by dhow, to just over 2 hours.
It's a nice feeling cutting across the waves as Captian Ali expertly
steers. Into the creek lining Manda island, where the channel has
been deepened so as to enable boats and jahazis to sail through any
time of day. This is Mandatoto, a crossing point for elephants from
the mainland to Manda island. A couple of hotels operate on Manda,
so if you want total seclusion this would be it.
The shores are full of Mangrove forests, common in
the coastal region. After about an hour of smooth sailing heavy
clouds rain down on us; now the rain in the coast is usually
enjoyable, but not when it's hitting you at 40km/h. If caught in a
similar situation you must cover your chest or else the combination
of cold wind and water could make you sick.
Manda - Pate
Ahead is the enormous Pate island that is home to a
number of villages including Kizingitini and Faza. The rain breaks
long enough for us to drive past Faza village, which still looks so
ancient that one can't help being transported back in time mentally.
Beautiful children frolick in the waters, while fishermen get busy
offloading their fresh cargo. The main mode of transport here is by
jahazi, with passenger boats ferrying people across the islands all
day.
Another large village is Siyu. Remember that if you
are to disembark and explore these islands you should respect the
dress code so as not to offend their religion or culture.
Pate - Kiwayu
An hour later the sandy hills of Kiwayu finally
loom up ahead. A few years back this remote island at the northern
end of the Lamu archipelago gained a reputation as a retreat for the
rich and famous. It boasts an idyllic beach, fabulous snorkelling on
the coral reefs and peace and quiet. On the mainland across from the
island is the Kiwayu Safari Lodge. Near the lodges is a quaint
village, close enough for hotel guests to still experience the local
lifestyle.
Kiwayu has two villages- small and big Kiwayu. It's
name originated from the words 'Kisiwa Yetu'. And finally we reach
our abode for the night. An old campsite that will soon be renovated
into a world-class resort.
Treehouse on
Kiwayu island
The treehouse looks stable enough, plus this will
be my first time to sleep in one so should be interesting.
Next on the agenda is a long walk through the
island, which still looks so raw and untouched, regardless of the
presence of an airstrip. Donkeys are used by the villagers to ferry
water and farm produce. The villagers prefer to walk, though walking
in sand isn't easy so wear shoes with a good grip. Our destination
is the highest point of the island. It's hot work but once at the
top a fabulous sight awaits our eyes.
Kiwayu forms part of the northern Lamu archipelago.
An archipelago is a landform which consists of a chain or cluster of
islands. All around we see the surrounding Pate, Siyu and Manda
islands, all the way to the mainland. Archipelagoes usually occur in
the open sea, and are often volcanic, but there are many other
processes involved in their construction, including erosion and
deposition.
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Archipelago facts:-
- The word 'archipelago' comes from the
Aegean Sea (Greek), which literally means "chief sea", from
Greek arkhi (leader) and pelagos (sea).
- Ancient ruins and isolated villages are in
plenty for the avid explorer
- Siyu is home to descendants of Chinese
travelers marooned when their trade vessel sank hundreds of
years ago
- Commerce brought foreigners to the coastal
shores upto 2,000 years ago
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There is actually fresh water available on the
island, due to the filtration of sea water through the sand. These
wells have watered sailors for centuries, dating back to the days
when Arab dhows traded between Arabia, Mombasa and Zanzibar
Kiwayu is the most northerly of the islands in the
archipelago and has the best beaches, a 6 mile stretch of pure
virgin beach. The fishing grounds are some of the most fertile in
Kenya, with catches of upto 50 fish in one trip. So do keep your
ears open for future developments of this land that is only 70
kilometres from Somalia .
Next morning we wake up early so as to leave with
the tide. My night was interesting sleeping in the treehouse. We bid
a fond farewell and speed off as the sun rises over this island that
is bound to become one of the best coastal destinations in Kenya,
someday. And to escort us out is the sight of dolphins playing with
us in the rapidly warming waters.
Related link: Lamu
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