Country Info
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North Rift Circuit

Samburu

The journey

Getting to Samburu is an adventure in itself. The great scenery along the way will keep you alert throughout, with plenty of towns along the way to stopover. Grab a bite or shop in Sagana, Karatina, Nyeri or Nanyuki.

Samburu is roughly 5 ½ hours drive North East of Nairobi and there are affordable public service vehicles getting there from all major towns. You may also take the train to Nanyuki and continue by road through Isiolo. Alternatively you may fly down to the Samburu or Shaba airstrips in just 45 minutes.

Those who want to enjoy exclusively private self-drive safaris have numerous local companies to choose from, offering 4 wheel drive vehicles to small saloon cars. Nearly all roads to the National Parks and Reserves or to major towns have signs so that visitors will find their way around with ease.

The road is generally good except between Karatina and Nyeri, then say goodbye to tarmac at Isiolo town from where there is a rough murram road. Many of the local people use camels or pack themselves into the more common pickups and lorries.

Shaba National Reserve

This is perhaps the more exotic of the three neighbouring reserves, with its landscape and volcanic lava deposits strewn around.

Accommodation

The Sarova Shaba lodge is a tranquil paradise exuding beauty and warmth, serenity and simplicity. The rooms are cosy, duplicating the relaxed outdoor atmosphere while crystal clear natural springs flow through the lodge, bringing a refreshing coolness to the hot days.

Game drive

Game drives are best in the early morning or evening as this is when animals are most active.

Begin the day with an early morning drive through the savannah country that is breathtaking with its uniquely large concentration of wild animals. Venture out with an experienced guide for a closer investigation of the park that boasts wildlife found only north of the equator including the reticulated giraffe, Grevy's zebra, Gerenuk and Savannah elephant.

The Gerenuk or giraffe antelope as it is also known because of its long neck, though also found in the south, exists in larger numbers north of the equator. Other species include the waterbuck and impala. For the bird watchers there are a recorded 150 species of birdlife including the palm vulture and Guinea fowl.

The Shaba Game reserve is part of group of reserves in the Eastern Province, at the entrance to the vast scrub desert that reaches beyond Lake Turkana. It lies east of the Isiolo-Marsabit road and is located 100kms north of the equator, 50kms from Isiolo town. The reserve takes its name from a massive spread of volcanic rock that dominates the region.

The River Ewaso Nyiro, which means ‘the river of brown or muddy water', rises from the foothills of the Aberdares and vanishes beyond Samburu into the Lorian Swamp .

The beautiful scenery along the riverbanks is one of the great attractions here, with tall feathery palms and a strip of riverine forest and thicket.

Some history...

George and Joy Adamson site

I was soon to discover that Samburu has played a bigger part in Kenya 's history than I had ever imagined. This is where George Adamson (of the Born Free fame) had to kill a man-eating lioness as a senior game warden of the area. It had three newly born cubs that were taken in by his wife Joy Adamson who became their foster mother. She named them 'Lustica', 'Big One', and 'Elsa'. Though released back into the wild, Elsa retained a bond with her human foster parents, such that when she had her own cubs she brought them right back to the camp. They also got their share of stardom, featuring in the movie ‘To Walk with Lions' that was also shot here in Shaba .

The camp is now a Ranger's outpost from where rangers monitor visitors' movement in the park thus ensuring they have a safe game drive.

Samburu national reserve

The Samburu National Reserve lies 325 km north of Nairobi and neighbours the Shaba Reserve. Many small hills dot its landscape that is home to a number of rare wildlife species. Remember the strange case of the lioness who adopted an oryx? That scene was played out right here in this reserve.

Buffalo Springs National Reserve

Buffalo Springs National Reserve is separated from the Samburu Reserve by the river Ewaso Nyiro, and is less hilly and less dense than its neighbour but equally as attractive. The Reserve takes its name from springs of crystal clear water at the western end of the sanctuary.

Sometimes man unexpectedly aids in the formation of memorable land features, such as the crystal clear springs thatsit in 3 bomb craters, whichwere created by an Italian bomber during World War 2. While flying overhead he thought that a herd of buffalo was a British encampment so he bombed it. The underground water flowing into the craters is heavier than normal and rich in carbon and minerals that make it a popular spa for tourists. It is also a drinking place for thousands of bird and animal species.

The cultures

The Samburu people are friendly, semi-nomadic pastoralists whose lives revolve around their cows, sheep, goats, and camels. Generally between five and ten families set up traditional huts known as manyattas, plastered with mud or hides and grass mats stretched over a frame of poles. A fence of thorns surrounds each family's cattle yard and huts.

Most dress in very traditional clothing of bright red material used like a skirt and adorned with multi-beaded necklaces, bracelets and earrings.
Their language is also called Samburu. Men care for the grazing cattle that are the major source of livelihood while women maintain the portable huts, milk cows, obtain water and fetch firewood.
Visiting their village comes at an extra cost that supports their community activities.

Other activities

Lodges like Shaba present crocodile feeding, with guests watching from the safety of the viewing deck as crocodiles climb the river bank to feed.

So after a hot, busy but exhilarating day, settle down to the evening entertainment provided by local Samburu dancers…..

After which, you may fatten yourself on a Swahili theme poolside BBQ dinner complete with a sumptuous spread of delicacies, the taste enhanced by the fresh pure warm evening air…

For variety the different lodges vary their dinner themes every night; from Swahili style poolside barbeque buffets to the Boma dinner that is served in a traditional boma complete with a Samburu traditional hut and bonfire. Special children's meals are also prepared on request.

And the scene is set for what is truly an extraordinary evening….

Accommodation rates and images